Yes. To dim your lights with Click, press and hold the rocker after configuring the “hold” option in the Philips Hue App.

Yes. The default dual-rocker configuration offers four buttons for accessing your four favorite scenes.

Yes. Click for Philips Hue switches can be installed in any dry location, inside or outside.

No. Click for Philips Hue communicates with bulbs using only the Bridge. No internet connection required.

Yes. The third party app HueDynamics supports the Click for Hue and offers advanced configuration options. Check it out!

Yes. Click switches control all bulbs in a single room as configured with the Hue App.

Yes. Each button on the Click for Philips Hue switches can be configured to control a different room with the Hue App.

Navigate to: Settings -> Accessory Setup -> Friends of Hue switches, then select existing switch or add a new one.

Yes and Yes.

Yes. Use multiple Click for Hue switches to control Hue lights from multiple locations.

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Yes, each unit is assigned a unique digital ID and communicates only with other units specifically associated through a linking process.

25 switches can be linked to one controller.

The only limit is the wireless range. Multiple controllers may be linked to each switch.

A 3-way switch kit includes 2 wireless switches to which replace any existing wired switches. The controller replaces existing switches and does not work with them.

Typically between 50 and 150 ft. Range. The equipment nearly always works reliably within a 50’ radius and can work at longer distances. Range is affected by:

Proximity to metal – keep away from metal to increase distance, use plastic boxes instead of metal where possible
Obstructions – Wireless signal transmits through most materials at least some distance. Materials in order of range reduction, minimum to maximum: glass, sheetrock, wood, aluminum siding, sheet metal, stucco (w/ wire mesh), brick, concrete
Interference – Some 900MHz wireless microphone systems are known to reduce the reliability of the wireless switches. There are no other known sources of interference.

The products use no batteries and include an integrated magnetic generator. They are designed with a 20+ year intended lifespan. They have a 5 year warranty.

1.Confirm the controller has power and the Status LED is Green (Output ON) or Red (Output OFF). Hold the MENU button until a click is heard – about 5 seconds. Buttons may be hidden under a sticker.

2.Click the top button of the switch 3 times. The status LED will pause GREEN for 3 seconds indicating that the switch ID has been added to the controller’s memory. If status LED pauses RED, the switch has been removed from memory; click the switch 3 more times to add it back.

3.Wait 30 seconds until clicking / blinking stops. Operate switch.

1.RunLessWire switches and controllers communicate using the 902MHz frequency. It will not interfere with Wifi (2.4GHz or 5.8GHz) or most other wireless devices.

2.Each unit is assigned a unique digital ID (one of 4 billion) and there cannot be cross talk, even though they transmit on the same frequency.

Watts = Amps x Voltage. So, for example, with the 5 amp RLW controller: 5A x 120V = 600 Available Watts

Since our switches are wireless, the wiring that was connected to the old switch doesn’t have anywhere to connect to on the new one. To keep power flowing through the circuit, you’ll 1. turn off the associated breaker 2. use a wire nut to securely connect the black and white wires in the switch box 3. cover the wires with either the new switch or a faceplate.

In most cases the dimmer does not require a separate neutral wire and works fine without it. Occasionally, there are issues such as causing flickering with other loads that can be resolved by having a dedicated neutral.

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The controller does not respond to the wireless switch:



1. Confirm the controller is wired correctly and functional:

+The status light on the controller should be illuminated. Green means the output should be ON, Red means the output should be OFF. No status light indicates that power is not on, wiring is incorrect, or Controller has been damaged.

+Press the “Select” or “Test” button to toggle the controller output. Subsequent presses will cycle between ON and OFF. If the status light changes color and the light doesn’t respond there may be a wiring problem. If the relay doesn’t click, the relay may be damaged from an overload condition.

2. Confirm the switch is functional:

+Click the switch and confirm that the controller status light flickers. Each time the switch transmits, whether it is linked or not, the status light should flicker briefly. If it does not flicker, either the switch isn’t transmitting or the controller isn’t receiving.

+Link the switch to the controller. Hold the “Menu” button for about 5 seconds until the controller clicks, then release. While the controller is clicking, press one button on the switch 3 times. The controller status light will pause GREEN when the switch is added to the controller memory. The status light will pause RED when the switch is removed from the memory. If this happened, click the switch 3 more times to add it to the memory. If clicking the switch doesn’t not link, the switch may be damaged. If a second switch is available and works, then the first switch can be confirmed defective. If not, contact RunLessWire for support and warranty service if applicable.